Preparation:- French seam front panel 1 to front panel 2.
- Press seam down.
- French seam front panel to back panel along sides and top.
- Press seam to back.
- Place front and back bodices on front panel, draw around marking notches and darts.
- Draw a curved line from bottom of front bodice to bottom of back bodice on either side.
- Continue the centre front lines down to the bottom of the front panel.
- Place circles on front panel where required, draw around.
- Cut out all negative space.
- On back panel, place circles where required, draw around and cut out negative space.
- Block fuse front bodice, undercollar and cuffs.
- Part fuse armholes and neckline on back bodice.
- Apply tape to neckline, and rever.
- Apply bridal strip to rever.
- Apply armhole tape to armholes.
Front Panel:
- Lockstitch dart on front bodice.
- Press dart down.
- Lockstitch front and back shoulder seams together.
- Press seam open.
- French seam side seams together.
- Press seam to back.
- French seam circle A1 to A2 on both sides.
- Press seam inwards.
- French seam circles B1 to B2 on both sides.
- Press seam inwards.
Back Panel: - French seam circles C1 to C2.
- Press seam inwards.
- French seam circles D1 to D2.
- Press seam inwards.
- French seam circles E1 to E2.
- Press seam inwards.
Collar and Sleeves: - Lockstitch top collar to undercollar.
- Press seam open, trim, press seam towards undercollar.
- Lockstitch top sleeve to bottom sleeve on long seam.
- Press seam open.
- Lockstitch short seam on sleeve.
- Press seam open.
- Lockstitch side seam on cuffs.
- Press seam open.
- Lockstitch cuffs to sleeves.
- Press seam open.
- Pre-ease sleeve head.
- Lockstitch Sleeve to armhole.
- Press seam towards sleeve.
Facing and Lining: - French seam top front lining to facing.
- Press seam to side.
- Overlock top front lining to bottom front lining on both sides.
- Press seam down.
- French seam top back lining to bottom back lning.
- Press seam down.
- French seam back lining to front lining at side seams.
- Press seams towards the back.
- Lockstitch shoulder seams.
- Press seams open.
- Lockstitch top sleeve to bottom sleeve on long seam.
- Press seam open.
- Lockstitch short seam on sleeve, leaving gap between notches on left sleeve.
- Press seam open.
- Lockstitch lining sleeve to lining armhole.
- French seam facing to rever and centre front on both sides.
- Lockstitch sleeve lining to cuff.
- Press seam open.
- Lockstitch collar on the round.
- Press seam open.
- Trim corners.
- Stay stitch top collar seam allowance to undercollar seam allowance.
- French seam lining hem to jacket hem.
- Pull jacket through gap in sleeve lining.
- Lockstitch Sleeve lining closed.
- Press hem.
- Final press to jacket.
Friday, 23 April 2010
Sequence of assembly
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