Friday 23 April 2010

Sequence of assembly


  • Preparation:
  • French seam front panel 1 to front panel 2.
  • Press seam down.
  • French seam front panel to back panel along sides and top.
  • Press seam to back.
  • Place front and back bodices on front panel, draw around marking notches and darts.
  • Draw a curved line from bottom of front bodice to bottom of back bodice on either side.
  • Continue the centre front lines down to the bottom of the front panel.
  • Place circles on front panel where required, draw around.
  • Cut out all negative space.
  • On back panel, place circles where required, draw around and cut out negative space.
  • Block fuse front bodice, undercollar and cuffs.
  • Part fuse armholes and neckline on back bodice.
  • Apply tape to neckline, and rever.
  • Apply bridal strip to rever.
  • Apply armhole tape to armholes.

    Front Panel:

  • Lockstitch dart on front bodice.
  • Press dart down.
  • Lockstitch front and back shoulder seams together.
  • Press seam open.
  • French seam side seams together.
  • Press seam to back.
  • French seam circle A1 to A2 on both sides.
  • Press seam inwards.
  • French seam circles B1 to B2 on both sides.
  • Press seam inwards.

    Back Panel:

  • French seam circles C1 to C2.
  • Press seam inwards.
  • French seam circles D1 to D2.
  • Press seam inwards.
  • French seam circles E1 to E2.
  • Press seam inwards.

    Collar and Sleeves:

  • Lockstitch top collar to undercollar.
  • Press seam open, trim, press seam towards undercollar.
  • Lockstitch top sleeve to bottom sleeve on long seam.
  • Press seam open.
  • Lockstitch short seam on sleeve.
  • Press seam open.
  • Lockstitch side seam on cuffs.
  • Press seam open.
  • Lockstitch cuffs to sleeves.
  • Press seam open.
  • Pre-ease sleeve head.
  • Lockstitch Sleeve to armhole.
  • Press seam towards sleeve.

    Facing and Lining:

  • French seam top front lining to facing.
  • Press seam to side.
  • Overlock top front lining to bottom front lining on both sides.
  • Press seam down.
  • French seam top back lining to bottom back lning.
  • Press seam down.
  • French seam back lining to front lining at side seams.
  • Press seams towards the back.
  • Lockstitch shoulder seams.
  • Press seams open.
  • Lockstitch top sleeve to bottom sleeve on long seam.
  • Press seam open.
  • Lockstitch short seam on sleeve, leaving gap between notches on left sleeve.
  • Press seam open.
  • Lockstitch lining sleeve to lining armhole.
  • French seam facing to rever and centre front on both sides.
  • Lockstitch sleeve lining to cuff.
  • Press seam open.
  • Lockstitch collar on the round.
  • Press seam open.
  • Trim corners.
  • Stay stitch top collar seam allowance to undercollar seam allowance.
  • French seam lining hem to jacket hem.
  • Pull jacket through gap in sleeve lining.
  • Lockstitch Sleeve lining closed.
  • Press hem.
  • Final press to jacket.

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