Subtraction Cutting

In Wednesdays workshop we learnt a new approach to pattern cutting called subtraction cutting. First developed by Julian Roberts the technique consists of subtracting areas of fabric to make a series of tunnels, which in turn gathers and folds the fabric in various ways. The idea is to look at the fabric from an aerial 3D perspective rather than a flat 2D perspective.

During the workshop we created a half size dress by starting with a bag type formation of fabric, which we then cut into, subtracting fabric which would lead to the development of the shape of the dress.

I really enjoyed this technique, I found it interesting to work in a different way and investigate the new possibilities it has opened up for design. I particularly like the unknown that this technique offers, you could have no idea what the garment will turn out like until it is sewn. Having only a basic workshop in this technique I am eager to experiment myself to see how it can be manipulated to create new and innovative design formations. In the future I will consider my fabric choice more carefully, it is obvious that a heavy fabric will hold the folds and gathers of the garment better than the lightweight fabric which I used.